Sunday, August 24, 2008

Trip Home

I apologize to our loyal blog fans (hi mom, hi tara) for our delay in posting. We got a little frazzled toward the end of the trip and haven’t updated for a while. So, we are back in Raleigh and below is a recap of how we got here.

….. we drove from Bigfork down through Missoula to Anaconda. In Anaconda , we met up with Mike and Dot again. They had settled in at the cabin by Georgetown Lake. The cabin sat at 6,500 feet and had nice views along with a hot tub on the deck. At that elevation, the mornings were brisk (~40 degrees) so the hot tub was booked up in the early am. Mike’s father (christine’s grandfather) grew up in Anaconda. Mike visited once back in around 1960. He was able to find the house that his dad's family grew up in.

Anaconda was built up to support a copper smelting company. The smelting factory closed in 1984 but the remnants are all over town. Mike and I played golf on a Jack Nicklaus designed course (http://www.oldworks.com/) – The course is laid out through the original foundation of the smelting plant and instead of sand in all the bunkers he used ‘slag’, which is a black byproduct of the smelting process (see the picture of mike attempting to hit out of it). It was a nice day for golf and we got paired up with an ex-con pawn broker from Detroit who had been charged with usary and had his case go to the supreme court before being exonerated due to procedural mistakes made by the prosecutors - so we heard some interesting stories.

The other days in anaconda we checked out the town, ate some nice dinners at the cabin and played cards. It was a nice visit.





We left Anaconda on Monday morning heading for springfield. We originally had designs on doing some sight-seeing on the way back but with all the miles to cover, we decided to just drive and sleep. The first night we made it to South Dakota and camped at Badlands National Park. We got there in time for sunset and then went for a short hike in the morning. It didn’t seem that bad to me.



On Tuesday, we got to Council Bluffs, Iowa. Then on Weds we got to springfield, IL.

We made it for the last day of harness racing at the fair (as per usual, we lost our a$es). Then on Friday we accompanied Tara and Keira (my niece) to the fair again. On Friday night, we hung out at the cadwells and celebrated Christine’s birthday again.




Saturday was the main event – Keira was baptized and then my parents hosted a bbq at their house. Keira was calm and composed for the baptism and the party was a success.

Sunday morning we got back on the road headed for Raleigh….and we arrived home on Monday night.

As we unloaded the car it felt like we were moving in again because we had so much jammed in the car and we were just getting used to the new place. We have gotten settled and are enjoying sleeping in our bed and showering whenever the fancy strikes us. We are enjoying cooking on a stove with proper pans and cutlery along with suitable fridge space.

We had a great long trip and succeeded in keeping it together for the most part. The weather was perfect and even with gas prices hitting all-time highs we spent less than I thought we would.

We were gone from Raleigh for 70 days. We put 11,430 miles on the car. We spent a grand total of $1,884.76 on gas in 45 stops. It hit 104 degrees in Moab, UT and one night in Bigfork, MT it was 37 degrees. We were in 25 states over the course of the trip and took about 3,500 pictures. We visited 10 national parks.

For those of you that are worried about filling your days post-CBD Adventure Blog, do not fear, yet. I’m going to look through and pick out my favorite pictures and post them in the next couple weeks. Then I might continue to post about what goes on day-to-day here in Raleigh. Again, I wouldn’t recommend reading it. But you can. If you want.

Tuesday, August 12, 2008

Trout Lake


In response to our many requests for Deefur update: A little hiking and a lot of resting! She remains the best traveling dog in the history of road trips. Going with the flow...


On Wednesday, I was standing in line to ask the park ranger at Glacier National Park a question when I overheard this fella in front of me reporting that he had seen a black bear and a grizzly bear within a ½ hour on his way up to a lake to fish. I heard the time and place, so Christine and I decided against better judgement to head to this trail Friday morning to see if we could catch a glimpse of a bear. We didn’t go at dawn as that is when they are most active and although we wanted to see a bear, we didn’t want to catch them in an active state. The trail is through an old growth forest and it is steep. We walked 90 minutes out and 90 minutes back through stands of huckleberries (bears favorite food other than foreign toddlers) but didn’t see a darned thing. Might be better off that way.

We went back to the cabin and grilled out a last meal, then went into bigfork to look around again. Saturday morning, we stocked up on cherries from the orchard and hit the road heading south to Anaconda to catch up with Mike and Dot at the cabin they rented here.

It is another beautiful spot right along the continental divide in southwestern Montana. The cabin sits at about 6,500 feet and has great views.

Monday, August 11, 2008

Wild Horse Island

On Thursday, we took a boat ride out to Wild Horse Island. We chartered a boat with a captain and left bigfork at 8 am. Bigfork is at the northern tip of Flathead Lake and it was a 20 mile trip over the water to get to the island. Wild Horse Island is a state park that is about 2,000 acres and is inhabited by quite a few large mammals, including horses. The captain was knowledgeable about the lake and was a competent boat pilot, but he was carrying a variety of personality disorders so he kept us on our toes for the 7 hour trip.

We got to see the lake from a new perspective, learned about the origins of the landscape, the history of the mountains, the native American population, some details about flathead lake, the flathead river system and the local fauna. We saw bald eagles, ospreys, wild horses, massive bucks and a herd of big-horned sheep.

We saw an osprey snag a fish about a ¼ of its size out of the water. Then we saw another osprey tearing the guts out of a fish and feeding it to its fledelings.






Captain Bill was a kook. He was mustachioed like a seventeenth centrury vicomte and talked a mile a minute. He took a shine to mike. And mike couldn’t get far enough away from him on the boat. He spoke to all the animals we saw in a creepy Cesar Milan voice and told them that it was ok, it was just their friend bill. I will try to upload a video that captures an example of this one-way conversation. He talked to the animals ~50 times while we were on the boat.

video

When we landed on the island we had a couple hours to kill. We started off on a hike. Christine and I decided to climb to a plateau in the center of the island to get a better view. Mike and Dot stayed in the lowlands with Captain Bill. Apparently Captain Bill was watching us ascend through his binoculars and he knew that we are newlyweds. He asked Dotti if she was ready to become a grandmother, because he was quite certain that we were going to get to the top of the hill and would find a spot to generate a grandchild. At that point Mike asked bill where he would be spending the remainder of the day on the island and explained that unfortunately the cadwells were going the other way. He was a looney toon.

We got back into bigfork and went to have a couple beers at the saloon without captain bill. Then we went over to the cadwell’s condo for a swim in the lake and a nice dinner of seabass.

Friday, August 8, 2008

Glacier with Dot and Mike







We headed back to Glacier on Tuesday with a plan to drive through the whole park, stopping for a picnic and a few trails. I was excited for my Mom and Dad to come to Glacier with us because it is so spectacular when you see it for the first time.

I knew they would love it and of course it did not disappoint. We hiked through Avalanche Creek and some old growth cedars, then went to Logan Pass and hiked Hidden Lake. Bob and I went ahead at Hidden Lake and missed out on the experience of mature big horn sheep (with the huge curling horns) walking right across the trail in front of my parents. 10 feet away and they have great photos that I’ll try to post later.

We picnicked at the Sunrift Gorge and walked down to Baring Falls. We ended the afternoon at St. Mary and then Many Glacier Lodge.

On the way to Many Glacier I saw a bear sitting on his haunches about 50 yards from the road. Bob put on the brakes and we tried to go back, but everywhere we turned cars were piling up behind us. No one else got to catch a glimpse. By early evening we started heading back and it was a very long ride on a very winding road. Dot and I were none too happy as both of us are prone to a little car sickness. By the time we made it back to Bigfork we just stopped for quick burgers and beer, which seemed to lift everyone’s spirit.

We all made it back after conquering Glacier National Park in one day and we fell asleep exhausted. The next day was left open for shopping, resting, and grilling out at our cabin. My parents spent the afternoon at their condo swimming in Flathead Lake and sipping on frozen Mike’s Hard Lemonade. It was a record high for the summer on Flathead: 94 degrees.

“Swimming Hole“ hike and Bob’s favorite day of the year


On Sunday we went to a swimming hole that the ranger told us about. We packed a lunch and our suits and hiked to this gorgeous waterfall with a turquoise pool. We had the place to ourselves. Bob tore off his boots and socks and jumped in with glee… he ran out with tears in his eyes because the water was, per our estimation, approx. 42 degrees. Beautiful, yes. Swimming, no.



We sat on the rocks and had lunch preparing ourselves to hike back out when my pack rolled off the rocks, over the falls, and into the swimming hole. It didn’t have anything irreplaceable in it, just towels and swimming suits etc but we couldn’t just abandon it. Bob went down to the edge to sweet talk it out. He wouldn’t get back in the frigid water for fear of death, so he let the current take it for a few minutes until he could reach it with a long stick. What we ended up with was two massive beach towels that could have taken until Tuesday to dry so I just threw the pack that went from 12 pounds to 35 pounds soaking wet on my back and we got out of there.



Monday was my 29th birthday, woohoo! I had a nice bagel in the morning and did some interneting catching up on my celebrity gossip. Bob and I went into Bigfork and browsed around. I took a nap in the afternoon and my parents arrived here in Montana that evening. My Grandpa is from Anaconda Montana and my Dad visited here when he was young and always wanted to come back. I suggested they come out when Bob and I were here, and they obliged! Dot and Mike are staying at a condo on the lake just down the street from our cabin. We met them when they arrived on Monday and had an awesome birthday dinner at the Many Springs Restaurant. I had King Crab Legs and an ice cream sundae with a b-day candle in it. I had a great wild west Montana birthday.

Sunday, August 3, 2008

Glacier National Park - Highline Trail


Glacier National Park is called the crown of the continent. It straddles the continental divide with sharp peaks reaching 10,000 feet. In every direction from the highest point in the center of the park, the terrain slopes down to lower peaks strewn with lush valleys, innumerable waterfalls, mountain streams and a glacier here and there.

We headed back to the park early Friday morning. The NPS is working on a shuttle system to move folks around the park and alleviate traffic but the kinks aren’t quite worked out. We drove to the shuttle stop at end of the highline trail then took the shuttle the last 10 miles to the trailhead at 6800 feet. One way the trail is 12 miles and drops about 2,500 feet.

The first 7 miles of the trail follows the continental divide through the center of the park and provides views of most of the western ½ of the park. It is a relatively flat trail. About 6 miles into the trail there is a fork with a sign indicating a quick detour of 0.6 miles to the “Glacier Overlook”. We decided to take the detour. 50 feet from the main trail Christine decided the trail was a bit steep and said she would wait for me at the crossroads.


I continued up and up and up to a notch in the ridge which crested about 1,100 feet above the trail. Through the notch was a view overlooking the Grinnell glacier and much of the eastern ½ of the park. The wind was fierce and cold. As I stood there I realized that bees were being blown through the notch and launched towards north Dakota against their will. I’m guessing that the wind picked them up from the side of the mountain and off they went.

I walked back down and met up with Christine. At the end of the flat portion of the trail, we stopped at a chalet for lunch then descended the last section of the trail through an area that had been burned in 2003.

Saturday we slept in and went into bigfork for an art fair. We bought a decorative coat hanger with dragonflies on it for Christine’s birthday. It is lovely.



We ate an early dinner then headed into the casino back in bigfork so that I could play some poker with the cowboys. I bought a handgun and a holster from a pawn shop and headed to the game. It was full of locals that were much better poker players than I am. I didn’t lose too badly thanks to one dude who got worse as he slammed shots of rumplemintz.

Christine sat behind me cheering me on when I won and consoling me when I lost. As she mowed down pints of busch beer, her whispering cheers and derogatory comments about my competition got louder and louder. I thought I might have to get into a duel at one point, but it didn’t come to that. I did open the bathroom door and smack one of the poker players in the forehead and put a big gash in his brow. So the short version of the story is I went to Montana lost a little money in a backroom poker game then almost knocked some fella out.

Friday, August 1, 2008

Glacier National Park - Gunsight Lake

Why even bother trying to describe? It’s just that good. The pictures we have are crap because most of the time we were slack jawed and teary eyed. It is spectacular; and we are going back to Glacier several times so I’ll save additional adjectives for later.


Day 1 was spent parking at the west side (Apgar Visitor Center) and catching one of the park’s shuttles to Logan’s Pass. From our cabin it’s 1 hour to the entrance, but 2 and a half to Logan’s Pass. The park is expansive, but the drive is part of the breath taking experience. We had in mind to do the Highline Trail, which is very popular and well traveled. However, when we got there the ranger forecasted 80 mph winds and the trail literally walks out on an exposed ridge at 7000 feet. It looks like certain death from a distance with no wind.


We opted for another trail that a shuttle rider recommended: Gunsight Lake. The hike was just shy of 13 miles with little elevation change; except an 800 foot climb right at the end that was a bit of a killer. The payoff is at the half way mark when the trail opens onto Gunsight Lake. We had lunch and rested. The thing about this hike was that there were people we came upon that we wanted to ditch for solitude reasons. This led to a record pace! We were all high fives and congratulatory the whole way home. Thursday we stayed at the cabin all day lounging around, reading, and planning for Friday.